If the wind is really fierce and the temperature dips, the port, unlike the river, freezes. At night, the moon is reflected off this giant skating rink and shines into the bedrooms facing the city. Huge rusty cargo ships registered in Venezuela and Honduras, ships with the names of Siberian poets, Bulgarian zoologists and Polish opera singers come early and stay the season. Looking ominous, sometimes they make their way into the local thrillers. The low groans of their chimneys are frequently heard during the night.